Sofia’s on the Morgenster wine estate in Somerset West has distinct advantages: set on a lovely wine farm; housed in an historic Cape cottage; and close to the captive and well-heeled market of the Erinvale golfing estate.

It’s a down-to-earth eatery with thatched roofs and raw wood rafters. The interior dining features a fireplace and there is a serene patio on brick under vine, as well as some seats under old trees on the lawn. Bucolic views of mountains and vineyards complete the scene.

A small menu of flavoursome choices highlights South African smells in a casual style. A recent lunch menu featured delicious black mussel soup or a ham hock terrine to start, as well as "souttert" — that South African take on quiche.

Mains included braised pork neck where the plainness of "pap" was offset by an orange and Cognac jus; impala loin, meanwhile, was served with garam masala potatoes.

Malva pudding on the dessert menu was right at home, along with poached guavas.

The food quality is good and, at R195 for three courses, so is the value. A selection of well-chosen wines are set alongside the estate’s own products. Suggestions accompany all dishes, and you can include a glass of wine with each course for an additional fee.

Vergelegen Ave, off Lourensford Rd, Somerset West, (021) 847-1993, www.morgenster.co.za

• JP Rossouw is editor of Rossouw’s Restaurants, the independent guide to dining in South Africa. All visits are made unannounced and are paid for.