THE SAXON chef David Higgs has now been at this iconic establishment for some months, so a return was in order.
The ambience of the large dining space is enhanced in the evening by the wood lattice shuttering the large windows, while ample (white-gloved) service abounds.
The menu features classics such as salmon gravadlax, steak Diane and beef Rossini, along with high-end "essentials" such as caviar and lobster, but has also seen the influence of Higgs's more contemporary cooking, with starters of "broccoli and Parmesan" featuring pickled broccoli, broccoli purée and a Parmesan and hazelnut crumble; and mains such as twice-cooked pork belly with roast langoustine.
My meal was expertly cooked, the aforementioned starter flavoursome, rich but still vegetal; a main of roast quail advertised as being "whole" and "filled with" foie gras was in fact sectioned quail with a piece of foie gras, but exceptional in taste, enhanced by the perfect accompanying flavour of peeled grapes.
A dessert of "peach snow egg" with a peach granita and peach fool was very good.
The wine list has always been impressive, so in all there is a return to form. A 34-seater fine diner is set to open in October, where degustation menus and more contemporary cuisine will be the order of the day.
- 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, (011) 292-6000, www.saxon.co.za
. JP Rossouw is editor of Rossouw's Restaurants, the independent guide to dining in South Africa. All visits are made un announced and are paid for. www.rossouwsrestaurants.com
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